Building the Perfect Bench

Over the years, I’ve had the opportunity to visit many sports car enthusiasts in their garages (usually with attached homes), and have found most garages to be poorly equipped to
efficiently handle serious mechanical rebuild or restoration projects. I’ve also restored my share of cars, and in the process have graduated from the bucket-of-gasoline bag-of-old-tools school of automobile mechanics. I’ve found that working on old sports cars is far more enjoyable when carried out in a well lit, clean, and well organized work area.

A good rugged workbench and a capable parts washer are perhaps the two most important elements in any well equipped hobby shop. Having priced “professional” parts washing equipment and a range of rugged work benches. I realized that short of taking out a second mortgage. I needed to develop a more economical alternative.

The workbench/parts washing combination described below was completed six or seven years ago and has worked out extremely successfully. The key design elements of the parts washer were “borrowed” from production parts washers then on the market, while the bench is typical of designs found in various home handyman books. The beauty of this particular combination is when the parts washer is not in use, it is truly out of the way, and the flush-fitting cover allows for full use of the workbench top. When in use, there is ample room to park both washed and unwashed components. Incidentally, I’ve found my wife’s shallow baking trays are great for drying and preventing excess solvent from soaking into the bench top, but once returned to the kitchen they tend to impart a mild repair shop aroma to her chocolate chip cookies!

The sturdiness of the bench itself might at first appear to be overkill, but I’ve found it provides the necessary rigidity for working on heavy items, or when putting my oversized bench vise through exciting maneuvers. This particular bench is also free standing and is now in its second home. The backsplash has made my day on more than one occasion, keeping all those little balls and springs from rolling off the backside. I have finished off the plywood lop with tempered masonite, which is smooth, relatively durable and easy to keep clean. While the masonite is glued in place. I attached the oak edge with screws to allow for removal and easy replacement of the cemented masonite. The edge trim screws are chrome-plated TD dashboard screws and provide a nice finishing touch.

The parts washing aspect of the design is simple, yet highly effective. The water filtration system couldn’t be more efficient, as all solids and heavy greases settle to the bottom of the tank, while the clean solvent floats to the surface of the water where it is recycled. The water stays put and does not mix with the solvent.

I’ve used my washer extensively and have never had to change the solvent or clean the tank. Since there is no filter in the conventional sense, nozzle pressure is never reduced or restricted.

The solvent reservoir is made from a cut down 55 gallon drum. I selected one with a removable top secured by a band clamp. By removing the midsection and rewelding with a continuous bead, the resized tank can be made air tight to eliminate solvent evaporation and fumes. Since the bottom six inches or so is filled with water, rust could become a problem. I eliminated this by fitting a 55 gallon polypropylene tank liner, which is easily trimmed down. The heavy plastic tank liners are used for corrosive chemicals and can be obtained from the same source as the used 55 gallon drum. A good heavy coating of our fuel tank slushing compound, #220-450, on the inside of the bare tank will also minimize the chance of rust.

The submersible pump that I used was purchased as a solvent pump from an industrial supply house. Apparently, ordinary water-type submersible pumps work line, such as the type used for garden water fountains. (Pump should deliver around 150 gallons per hour to 3 foot height.)

The sink is a basic stainless steel kitchen sink and is large enough to hold a 4-cylinder engine block.

All drain fittings and the hand-held spray washer are normal kitchen hardware, while the main solvent gooseneck and control valve were obtained from the local industrial supply house. I’ve wired the grounded power cord to a switch box on the front of the bench.

I had originally envisioned finishing off the base of the bench with paneled sides and framed doors. This is the main reason for leaving all support rails flush with the bench legs. Drawers could also be added, but the top cross rail would have to be reduced in height which would, to a minor extent, compromise the strength of the bench.

The bench/washer setup took a few evenings and the better part of a weekend to complete. As I recall, the cost of lumber and parts washing components was ultimately a fair bit more than I had estimated, but still far less than the cost of a separate production parts washer and bench.

All in all, this has been a highly serviceable piece of equipment, has enhanced my enjoyment of working on old cars and was fun to build. Why not plan your own bench/washer building soon!

By Chris Nowlan