Weber Carburettors: Easier to Install Than You Think!

Weber carburettors have recently become the hot set up. Why after being around for years has the down draft now come into its own? The answer is simple. Confusion over installation and tuning has shrouded the Weber in mystery, relegating it to the domain of the wizard mechanic and performance fanatic

Now, thanks to the miracle of modem science and more importantly, the efforts of Moss Motors and our suppliers, we offer a kit for every weekend mechanic. The argument most often used against fitting the Weber is tuning problems. Jets, mains, idle, accelerator pump, emulsion tubes, air correctors; what on earth b all this stuff? To the weekend S.U. or Zenith Stromberg mechanic, these terms are considered gibberish, but they make the difference between a carb that merely works and one which helps the engine give its best. Instead of leaving the selection of all these important variables to your Ouiji board, we have done it for you.

Now that I’ve destroyed your favorite reason not to buy a Weber carb, let me tell you a little about what it does on the car. It won’t make your MGB leap tall buildings, or your Spitfire faster than a speeding bullet. However, British carbs with their slow throttle response are no match for a Weber. The two-barrel progressive design gives terrific economy under normal driving conditions because only the small primary barrel is in use. When you stomp the loud pedal, the larger secondary opens up, thus feeding considerably more air/fuel mixture to the engine. The Weber also incorporates an accelerator pump which squirts extra fuel into the manifold when the throttle is depressed. This feature accounts for the far superior throttle response of the Weber.

OK, enough of the technical stuff, let’s talk about installation and tuning. Anyone who can remove and install their original carb(s), can install a Weber. In fact, anyone who can read a set of instructions is capable of installing a Weber. Seriously folks, installation is a bolt-on operation and if you feel uncomfortable about doing it yourself, a mechanically inclined helper should be all that is necessary to do the job. I won’t go into details here, but take a look at the installation instructions, they are very self explanatory (We’ll be glad to send you a copy).

Once the manifold and carb are bolted in place, you are ready to start the car and drive away–well almost. The car will more than likely start without touching a thing. However, the idle speed and mixture screws should be adjusted as follows:

1. The mixture screw is located in the base of the carb below the choke linkage.Turn the screw in against its stop, then turn it out between one and two full turns.

2. Turn the idle speed screw out until it clears the throttle lever, then turn it back in one half turn after it makes con tact with the throttle lever. These two settings are considered adequate as a starting point

3. Now start the engine.  Allow time for the engine to warm up. Once the carb is warm, run the mixture screw in and out until the smoothest, fastest engine running is achieved. When this is done, adjust the idle speed screw to give the desired idle RPM.

Believe it or not, you’re done! Unlike some of the original equipment carbs, the Webers will probably need nothing more than a very occasional adjustment for the life of the carb. Oh yes, I almost forgot the last two instructions. Close the hood. Hop in and go for a ride. After all, you didn’t buy the car to sit in the garage.You will be amazed how much more performance and economy is available once those leaking S.U.’s or just plain dead Stromberg carbs have been replaced.

If the idea of an easy-to-install, genuinely top quality carburettor appeals to you, have a look at our down draft kits in the current sale fyer.You will be surprised how well your car runs with a Weber carb. For those of you who believe too much is never enough, we also carry a complete line of easy to install, pre-jetted DCOE side draft Webers.


'Weber Carburettors: Easier to Install Than You Think!' have 6 comments

  1. August 16, 2016 @ 9:04 am Jerry D Beck

    1979 Spitfire left in sister garage for 15 plus years… brother in law states original zenith carb running too rich… sister purchased weber carb and intake… installed by her husband, massive air leak …would not start… sold to me for 500 bucks or a church yard sale was next… solved air leak… car runs well until you stop… floods… discovered coolant hoses clogged.. carb may overheat at stop…. back home.. installed original zenith carb… found would only run when slide is open and lots of air passes through carb. discovered stuck choke. will attempt start and drive but the weber may work better with coolant lines clear? Thanks for the articles.. enjoy reading… worked on first brother in laws 1959 MGA.. owned another Triumph Herald sister brought back from England (had Spitfire engine).. purchased my own 1976 TR6… sold to buy our first house… tinkering on cars since age 14

    Reply

  2. July 22, 2020 @ 11:11 am ron

    how does the spring attach i had to replace the bottom head gasket and i am having trouble with the spring on the weber carb i didnt pay attension on how it was attached help

    Reply

  3. November 23, 2020 @ 9:06 am ari turunen

    I have a down draft webber on my 1975 MGB. It starts , idles and runs fine but on a long trip I can smell gas at traffic stops, but it goes away if I drive slower. I live in Florida where it can get hot. Engine temps are cool, oil pressure 50psi. But when I shut it off it runs on for 10 to 15 seconds. Had the local MGB shop try to fix it and they fixed an air leak in a gasket and everything else on the car but the run on issue is still there. It worked for a week before it started to do it again. How do I correct it. Is it a cooling water problem , heating from the exhaust manifold or just improper adjustment? I can’t get an answer anywhere. I can live with it but it is embarrassing to have your beautiful car coughing like it has covid!

    Reply

    • June 8, 2021 @ 1:53 pm Walter R.

      I own a 75B and have the same issue smelling fumes. Turns out vapor line from trunk to charcoal canister up front plugged. Since 75B uses an unvented fuel tank cap, tank fumes build and release into trunk. Installing a vented cap with earlier model fill tube for quick remedy. Still have run on issue to ponder.

      Reply

  4. January 28, 2023 @ 1:42 pm Bob

    How to start my 80 mgb with side draught carb? Has no choke

    Reply

  5. January 28, 2023 @ 1:45 pm Bob

    I meant a weberside draught carb

    Reply


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